James Small's Marching Band.

Us Tantrum girls were lucky enough to be invited along to James Small's AW11 collection at Sketch this LFW. Although we hadn't really seen any of the young British menswear designers work before, we went a bit crazy for James' AW collection, entitled 'Marching Band', which was inspired by the American Civil War. 

Featuring classicly tailored garments which were reinvented with a contemporary, casual edge, the collection mixed together an unorthadox array of fabrics and colours, ranging from faded florals to military blues and greys. ''Marching Band' is definately a collection we'd love the boys in our life to be wearing, AND, we even spotted a few pieces (note: those floral print trousers!) that we'd be totally psyched  to find in our own wardrobes!

After the show, we managed to catch up with James and get the answers to some questions his show left us dying to know...

Was the fashion industry one that you always wanted to get into?
"Not initially. I did graphic design at art college and wanted to go into fine art and textiles but couldn't really see how I'd make any money there, so I went into menswear fashion."

Your AW collection draws inspiration from the American Civil War. What it is about this that inspired you and how did you incorporate it into your garments?
"I find the American Civil War really interesting. I was really interested in how the confederates made their own uniforms. They took civilian clothes apart and dyed them to create their uniforms. It was a sort of ragamuffin look. A few pieces in my collection directly link to that theme but mainly I linked it through the fabrics and colours used."

Menswear can quite often be overlooked in the fashion industry. Do you feel like there are any disadvantages of working in menswear?
"I don't think there are any real disadvantages. If you create a good product, then you're looked after."


What are your future aspirations for the James Small brand? Are there any other areas of the creative industries that you want to branch out into?
"I'm a designer, so I like to do anything design-wise. I can apply that to anything, and I'm always up for any collaborations!"


Here's the last question, it's a tough one! What's your guilty pleasure?
"A pint & a cigarette."

Boasting celebrity fans such as Kate Moss, Jamie Hince & Alison Mosshart of The Kills, Sadie Frost, Jamie Winstone, Noel Fielding of the Mighty Boosh and T4's Nick Grimshaw (all of whom were in attendance at his exclusive catwalk show) we really did wonder why we hadn't heard of this british menswear designer before! 
One thing's for sure, James Small won't be staying unheard of for much longer...


words: Navneet Gill
photos: Alex Lambrechts
thanks to Nicole Levy @ Dust PR.

Les Chiffoniers AW11

Les Chiffoniers exhibited their A/W 11 collection in the form of a flawless presentation at Somerset House's famed Portico Rooms. The clothes where presented on silver constructed poles accompanied by a life-size image of the garment in its full glory. 

Leather was the main culprit in this collection (no complaints from us on this one!) and panelling was also highly used as we've seen in many of the A/W 11 collections. A particular Tantrum favourite consisted of a dress made up of hundreds of teeny tiny panels, in varied shades of brown which created amazing patterns and shape. The collection seemed to have an autumnal influence which was brought through in the colour palette, which also featured subtle hints of pastels and little outbursts of metallic hues. 

In our opinion, this was a beautiful and well-presented collection from Les Chiffoniers, we just can't wait to see what they bring us in S/S 2012! 

words and photos: Amy Edgar

Headonism: Piers Atkinson

Venturing a couple of levels down the stairs at Somerset House there are even more delights in store. This year brought us to the ‘Headonism’ a stunning display dedicated to the hat itself! Oh and what a joy it was.

Featured designers included Soren Bach, Noel Stewart, Little Shilpa and one of our favourites Piers Atkinson. Artist, illustrator, milliner, costume designer, party organiser, fashion editor, project manager - there is not much he can’t do! His astounding hat creations shown at Somerset House were very few of his full A/W 11 collection.

From tubed lighted Paris hats to black cherry topped hats, perfectly executed anyone would be lucky to have one of these designs perched on top of their head.

words: Amy Edgar

images: Amy Edgar and piersatkinson.com

Felder Felder AW11

You know it’s gonna be a good show when 15 minutes before it’s due to start, there’s a still a huge queue of down the road and a huddle of fashion-hungry people by the door, fighting to get in. Braving the London cold is no mean feat and we may well have given up were it not for the fact that this was one of the most hotly anticipated shows of the first day of London Fashion Week.

Famed for their rock-chick aesthetic, Felder Felder stayed true to their habits of catering for the hip, alt-fashion girl, who’s more into Iggy Pop than well, just pop. Injecting some colour to their usually monochrome palette in the form of a dark electric blue, Dani and Annette Felder’s AW collection offered looks ranging from chic tailored dresses in silks and leather  to silky, lightly embellished white blouses teamed with space-age silver skirts, all toughened up with cropped biker jackets and AW’s must have accessory: blue-dyed goats hair cuffs. 

This collection had us thanking our lucky stars we didn’t give in to the cold and go home and certainly proved the point that we kind of knew all along:  When it comes to fashion, the Felder girls know best.

words: Navneet Gill
photos: style.com

Christopher Beales AW11

The white-washed walls of The Rag Factory, just off Brick Lane staged 'When the Crystal Crack'd' - the first AW collection from tailor extraordinaire, Christopher Beales. 
With experience as a pattern cutter for every level of fashion, from Alexander McQueen to Primark (yes, Primark!) Beales has finally launched his very own collection, and boy, are we pleased! His collection was really a breath of fresh air, and although it was presented on mannequins rather than real-life models, it was miles ahead of the below-parr presentation seen at Ada Zandition earlier in the day.

Delivering a range of pieces, from printed silk blouses to fuchsia dresses adorned with deadly silver spikes and chains, topped off by an ominous looking lock and key, Beales' expertise clearly shone through in the perfectly cut tailored black jackets.

With a glass of champagne in hand, admiring Beales' 16-piece collection was nothing less than a real treat and a wonderful end to day 1 of London Fashion Week.

words and photos: Amy Edgar

'Freak Out' for Tapes 'n Tapes...

Here at Tantrum HQ we were lucky enough to get our hands on Outside, the newest Tapes 'n Tapes album - and if you're not jealous, you should be by the end of this...

Described by NME as 'a Coral-esque riot of rattle and bang,' the third album from the band is bigger and better than ever. Tapes 'n Tapes seem to have a talent for catchy, guitar driven music - and how could you ask for anything better?

First single Freak Out is probably the song on the album most fitting the NME comparison to The Coral, with sweet riffs and lyrics that leave you dying to know the story behind the song. SWM is another favourite, along with One In The World, which, if we were in charge of the world, would be played in every club in the country instead of what's in the charts.

Official video for single Freak Out (above)

The best description we can come up with is 'Conor Oberst and Johnny Borrell's teenage lovechild,' which might not make it as a catchphrase, but if you listen to the album we bet you'll understand - and love it just as much as we do.

Outside by Tapes 'N Tapes is available from their site here, or if you're in the UK and are too impatient to wait for US shipping, you can buy it on Amazon (here) or Play (here). Alternatively, ignore all of that and google it for yourselves...

words: Kirsty Gillespie

Eudon Choi AW11

The saddle on the invite gave us a slight clue as to what we were to expect at Choi's 2011 fall/winter show. The equestrian inspired collection was interesting to say the least. Yes, one or two outfits may have be a bit questionable but all in all the combination of paneling, fur, block colours and every now and again the random harness added on for good measure all came together to create the edgily androdgynous feel. 

The somewhat bulky oversized coats didn't quite do it for us at Tantrum but we were definately into the leather and fur fusion - can't wait to incorporate that into our winter wardrobe!

words: Selina Lalli
photos: Christopher Dadey

Jasper Garvida AW11

The Jasper Garvida AW 2011 show had to be one of the most colorful collections to hit the catwalk on day 1 of London Fashion Week. The jewel tones and rich fabric made us feel as though we had been transported to a couture show in Paris and made us completely forget about the dreary London weather that awaited us outside.

The collection itself was reminiscent of an Andy Warhol kind of print, from the colours to the images printed on top mixed with the contemporary oriental silhouettes. Interesting, right? 

The gowns with their cheeky thigh-high slits, high collars and gorgeous kimono sleevess looked dramatic but still elegant, everything you'd need in the case you were hitting some high-society evening party but still want to look cool. It's a shame there wasn't any casual wear though, we would have loved to rock this style during the day!

words: Selina Lalli
photos: Francisco Gomez de Villaboa

Jean-Pierre Braganza AW11

The sci-fi influences were evident as usual at Jean-Pierre Braganza's AW catwalk show as soon as the very first model stepped into our view. With her hair pulled tightly back in a super-high ponytail she walked on past us with alien-like ease and we just knew this was going to be another Braganza bonanza of sharp tailoring showcased with a science-fiction edge, and yes, as usual, we were spot on.

The tailored pieces were offset by trippy digital prints and for a change, we were shown some space-y silouhettes we could actually wear without looking like a reject from Gareth Pugh's production line. Practical fabrics were on all the rage in Braganza's 'post-cyber world' - with the AW's usual staples, leather and wool, making quite a few appearances. 

Panels of contrasting fabrics added more interesting shapes to the already interesting garments, and of course, what would a sci-fi influenced collection would be without statement shoulders? Braganza's collection is fit not only for a 'future world', but for a future fashion season. The season of AW 2011, in fact!

words: Navneet Gill

photos: style.com . We haven't downloaded ours yet...

Playing the Queen of Hearts.

Before the madness that is London Fashion Week, we've just found a delicious slice of electro-pop to get us running from one show to the next. Queen Of Hearts (who you may remember from our twitter or facebook teasers) has just hit the net and it's exactly what we need to get us (even more) excited.

Described as 'melancholic electro-pop, with a big dollop of love on top', this is musical glamour at its finest. A strong debut, with ethereal vocals and a pulsing beat, this song is going to be everywhere soon.

If you were disappointed with the new Gaga song, or are missing the Blondie sound, we can't recommend Freestyle more. Learn the lyrics, pull out your best dance moves, and party to the sound of the future - we certainly will.

Photo Credit: Jenny Brough

Freestyle by Queen Of Hearts: listen here

Unsigned Soul.

Being coerced into leaving my bed to travel a deserted field takes a certain degree of talent. On this day in particular at Kenwood House, not only had the British winter fully taken hold of London, but aforementioned field was also covered in a thick layer of snow.

I was introduced to Dorian Oddwood by Nedim Nazerali, photographer for the day, as well as Imran Nazerali, his ‘assistant’ (little brother), Elliott Power the director and stylist, Kyle De’Volle.

Dorian is an alternative pop slash indie musician with more London dapper than hair on his head. With a certain quirky swank and a soulful voice only comparable to the likes of John Legend, his performances and acoustic versions (which you almost never come across these days) have been thoroughly savoured by those who have come across his talent.

Dressed in an olive green mohair coat by graduate designer Benedicte Zuccarelli, an abruptly checked shirt and deep purple pair ski pants and construct ion boots on his feet, we went full swing into an interactive shoot in and amongst a mass of white stuff and sunshine. Elliott, Dorian’s best friend and film producer, as well as Nedim and Imran, had their cameras at the ready for an impromptu snap whilst Kyle told me about his styling and recent involvement with Rita Ora (definitely one to keep note of) a 20 year old singer who is currently signed to Roc Nation, to which at this point I wonder why everyone has more musician friends then me.

After a mid-snow garment change into a tent-like anorak and baby blue suede shoes, we diverted further into the foliage and set up camp across the sky line of central London, eventually leaving to allow our feet to gain vitality and allow blood back into our fingers.

With singles like The Love Routine, Keep off the Grass and Bees Don’t Sleep, and regular appearances of his dog, Dorian is a unique talent undeniably set to achieve greatness in a more contemporary music industry. If his outrageous afro or unique London style isn’t to your liking, his voice is sure to change your mind.

Words: Megan McDowell

Photographs: Nedim Nazerali and Imran Nazerali

Director: Elliott Power

Stylist: Kyle De'Volle

ACOFI Launch

Tantrum were kindly invited to attend and celebrate the launch of Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration (ACOFI). On a very chilly Friday in the heart of east London there was nothing more you could ask of. Held in the bunker café of the soon-to-launch 123 eco fashion store on Bethnal Green Road. We were greeted with a never ending choice of teas from Pukka served in vintage tea cups. The intimate setting harboured an exclusive atmosphere.  Unbeknown to the outside world, what little treasures were lurking inside!

Never ones to pass up on sweet treats, we indulged in some delicious cakes courtesy of Lilli Vanilli who provided the sweetest  mini scones to the nuttiest chocolate brownies – truly a sight for hungry eyes!

The room was full of some of the most talented illustrators who had been featured in ACOFI. The book was created by Amelia Gregory the brains behind Amelia’s Magazine It joins her first book ‘Amelia’s Anthology of Illustration’ and both of Amelia’s books show a great understanding of illustration and capture the spirit and style of emerging illustrators.

Just a glimpse of ACOFI’s front cover ensures it’s hard to resist picking it up to appreciate the beautiful content. The book features the work of 30 emerging illustrators around the world, combined with almost 50 ethical fashion designer profiles. It shows great character and gives full recognition to each illustrator which crafts a personal feel. It’s unlike any other fashion book - it is a burst of colour, art and fashion.

The event was a perfect way to celebrate the book and virtually brought it to life, everywhere you looked there was an illustrator capturing the moment. We were even lucky enough to have our illustrations done by the very talented Jenny Robbins and Joana Faria.

Illustration by Jenny Robbins

Illustration by Joana Faria

After being spoilt with tea and cake we were treated to an incredible goodie bag full of many treats from Tatty Devine, Moleskine, and products from Dr. Hanschka.  The cherry on top of a brilliant day!

ACOFI can be bought here Amelia’s magazine  and in all good art bookshops

View video interviews youtube.com/user/ameliashouse